automotive chassis: 2011

Friday, December 9, 2011

Tuesday, December 6, 2011

Friday, December 2, 2011

Thursday, November 24, 2011

i'm going to college and have to choose classes and am interested in car audio learning i know that there are special schools that you go to like mobile dynamics and was wondering is there a course that will teach me about car audio how to install and everything. its a community college and there are automotive classes like automotive technology, automotive engine, automotive brakes, suspension, automotive electrical and electrical systems and i think it maybe electrical and electricall system but on the description it says it goes overs the fundamentals of automotive electrical and electronic systems including service and repair of starting, charging, and other chassis electrical systems. Students are introduced to computer controlled systems. does any of this mean they will teach about car audio.|||most courses are automotive stuff like repairing cars because that really is difficult and requires a degree. but audio installation and stuff does not so there probably is no degree or classes for it. its something you either learn working at like best buy or from manuals of buying them. car audio installation is as easy as setting up a tv so its more of an on job experience. not a college thing you learn from. its really easy to do the hardest part will be maybe cutting out holes of a door panel and taking off the door panel but usually its just connecting wires it does not require any college to do. lol|||No, got nothing to do with car audio

Will Electronics engineering help in automobile industry?

Hi guys.I have been offered Electronics and Mechanical engineering to study.but which will help more in automotive industry,especially in

Design,Chassis and driving dynamics

vehicle concepts and architecture,whole vehicle body development..?It would be really a great help to select the right path to attain my dream job in automotive industry.

Thanks a lot in advance.|||Definitely Mechanical Engineering, even though electronic equipments are used more than mechanical nowadays, it helps only engine, transmission, safety, security system etc...

But only Mechanical or Automobile Engineering deals with design,Chassis and driving dynamics

vehicle concepts and architecture,whole vehicle body development.

Mech Engg also has subjects such as CAD to aid designing.|||Electronics is huge in automotive design, especially with hybrid and electric cars coming.

O2 sensor shorted out.. Help! CEL light is on?

I have a honda crv 03, 2nd gen.

77k mileage

The other week, after I started the engine, the "Check Engine Light" lights on.

It started like normal. I didn't feel any trouble with it, but I know that may ecm/pcm detected a problem.

I checked the engine oil and it seems to be low. So I brought it to a shop and let them perform an oil change. I thought that this could be the problem why the CEL is on.

The car was lifted with a complete hydraulic lift, and I was able to check the under part of the car.

At first, I was checking the chassis and suspension of my CRV. While walking beneath, I saw my O2 or the Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) sensor wire, stripped!

AND YES, exactly, this is the cause of CEL on. I'm pretty sure.

We have a puppy here in our house, who is always playing, running, sleeping around our parking.

And the fact that he likes to bite and chew anything that he saw and liked, or hanging.

My honda crv O2 sensor looks like this:

http://www.innerauto.com/includes/images鈥?br>

it has a 4 wires;

1 black and 1 grey - which I read from an automotive book that it is for the heating of the sensor.

2 whites - wire sending the signal to the ECU or ECM or PCM or ECM/PCM

- The 2 whites were extremely stripped apart, and the moment I saw these wires were intertwined. Which I suspect to cause an short circuit (I'm not sure)

- The other 2 (black and grey) are still okay.

I'm quite sure that my O2 sensor is still functional, it is only the white wires have the problem.

so I removed the O2 sensor.

I get an environmental splice from a electronics store and connected the 2 white wires.

I thought that this will solve the problem, but the CEL light is still on.

-I remove that negative for 15 mns. CEL on

-I remove the positive for 15 mns. CEL on

-I remove the positive and negative. CEL on

-I remove the fuse under the hood. CEL on

-I remove the fuse inside the car. CEL on

I don't know what to do.

I am planning to bring it to a shop with a ecm/pcm diagnostic tool.

But I'm sure that they will be giving me an o2 sensor problem here, and cost me bucks just for that simple **** scanning. If only I just have that scanner. sheesh..

Any advice there? Thanks. I will really appreciate.

And oh. I am also aware of removing the negative or positive overnight.

But I don't really believe on it. Honda's ecm/pcm are very intelligent and can detect immediately a new part connected.

But still, if you will advice me to do it for a good reason. I will. Thanks :)

Please help me. Help me from those Auto Mechanics who will cost me money just for this little job.

Please use simple terms in explaining :)

I am just a 19 yr old, aeronautical engineering and aircraft maintenance student.

thanks|||You can normally get any good auto parts store to pull a code from your obd II port. That will tell you what the check engine light is on for. If it's the O2 sensor, you might as well replace it. There are 2 types of sensors, pre and post catalytic converter. Make sure you get the right one. You can get the new sensor from any auto parts place or order them online. They should come either with a plug that matches your car's wiring or (and this is probably the one you want) a "splice" type connector with extra wire length.

O2 sensor shorted out? help! CEL light on.?

I have a honda crv 03, 2nd gen.

77k mileage

The other week, after I started the engine, the "Check Engine Light" lights on.

It started like normal. I didn't feel any trouble with it, but I know that may ecm/pcm detected a problem.

I checked the engine oil and it seems to be low. So I brought it to a shop and let them perform an oil change. I thought that this could be the problem why the CEL is on.

The car was lifted with a complete hydraulic lift, and I was able to check the under part of the car.

At first, I was checking the chassis and suspension of my CRV. While walking beneath, I saw my O2 or the Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) sensor wire, stripped!

AND YES, exactly, this is the cause of CEL on. I'm pretty sure.

We have a puppy here in our house, who is always playing, running, sleeping around our parking.

And the fact that he likes to bite and chew anything that he saw and liked, or hanging.

My honda crv O2 sensor looks like this:

http://www.innerauto.com/includes/images/Inner_Auto/Honda_Parts/honda_oxygen_sensor.jpg

it has a 4 wires;

1 black and 1 grey - which I read from an automotive book that it is for the heating of the sensor.

2 whites - wire sending the signal to the ECU or ECM or PCM or ECM/PCM

- The 2 whites were extremely stripped apart, and the moment I saw these wires were intertwined. Which I suspect to cause an short circuit (I'm not sure)

- The other 2 (black and grey) are still okay.

I removed the O2 sensor.

I get an environmental splice from a electronics store and connected the 2 white wires.

I thought that this will solve the problem, but the CEL light is still on.

-I remove that negative for 15 mns. CEL on

-I remove the positive for 15 mns. CEL on

-I remove the positive and negative. CEL on

-I remove the fuse under the hood. CEL on

-I remove the fuse inside the car. CEL on

I don't know what to do.

I am planning to bring it to a shop with a ecm/pcm diagnostic tool.

But I'm sure that they will be giving me an o2 sensor problem here, and cost me bucks just for that simple **** scanning. If only I just have that scanner. sheesh..

Any advice there? Thanks. I will really appreciate.

And oh. I am also aware of removing the negative or positive overnight.

But I don't really believe on it. Honda's ecm/pcm are very intelligent and can detect immediately a new part connected.

But still, if you will advice me to do it for a good reason. I will. Thanks :)

Please help me. Help me from those Auto Mechanics who will cost me money just for this little job.

Please use simple terms in explaining :)

I am just a 19 yr old, aeronautical engineering and aircraft maintenance student.

thanks|||to a point you are right. it is a heated o2 sensor and the 4 wires can lead you into a nightmare of a problem if you sit and guess. at the same time, you are guessing as to why the light is on. the stripped wire may not be it at all. a loose gas cap can trigger that light quickly also with no change to the driving. some shops will pull codes for free with the idea that you would go to them for parts. if the o2 sensor is the issue, replace it and have the light reset at that shop. they can do it with the same scanner.|||i agree buy a code reader and u will know for sure|||Jeez guy, quit whining and buy a code reader for $30. Then you'll stop guessing and stop throwing parts at the problem. Read the post below

http://www.ricksfreeautorepairadvice.com鈥?/a>

How do i do a engine swap on a chevy blazer. HELP!?

I am trying to do a engine swap on a v6 chevy blazer and i am running into problems. My biggest problem is im not a mechanic but im working in an automotive shop so i really am not up to par on the terminology. the 4th step is "Remove body mounts on utility vehicles. Loosen front and remove two body mounts on cab and chassis models". Im pretty sure its not a utility vehicle so that makes me wonder what the body mounts are. (Engine Mounts?) It doesn't say anything about supporting the engine yet so i have no ****ing idea what to remove. My boss is gone right now and is putting way to much trust into me. Please help so i don't have to listen to an ear full when he gets back. Thanks|||it is a utility vehicle SUV Sport Utility Vehicle,and its asking to remove the front body mount where the body mounts on to the frame you will see them there will be a round short rubber piece in between the frame and the body on the left and right side with a bolt running through it

let me know if this helps or not, if not i will see if i can send you a picture of them. also what year is it???

I'm getting my first car and I have been reading up, but I can't understand some of the lingo...help!?

Ok so I'm getting a 1988 Cadillac Seville STS. I have tried to search individual terms but they just bring me back to the same pages, or to forums for other cars like Dodge and PT Cruisers.

So please could you break down these terms for me so that I can understand them, like you were telling a younger child as you are pointing to parts in the car.

" It featured special 15 inch alloy wheels, special springs, rear sway bar, and a special 15.6:1 steering ratio for enhanced handling, a grille mounted Cadillac emblem, special cloisonne trunk lock cover, and a unique four place interior."

Here is the Wikipedia Page

In 1986, an all-new, much smaller body attempted to combine the crisp angularity of the original Seville with the rounded edges of the new aerodynamic aesthetic. The series featured a transverse mounted V8 driving the front wheels. The smaller size and conservative styling were regarded as bland, and customers stayed away. Despite the lack of popularity, the new Seville/Eldorado chassis featured an advanced transmission and engine control system that offered Environmental Protection Agency fuel consumption figures of nearly 30 mpg-US (7.8 L/100 km; 36 mpg-imp) on the highway using a small fuel injected V8. The new model featured a worldwide production car first鈥攁 computer system that monitored the car's systems and the engine. The BCM/ECM (Body Computer Module/Engine Computer Module) was paired with an electronic dashboard using high intensity vacuum fluorescent displays and utilized GM's expertise derived from the acquisition of Hughes Electronics, makers of communications and spy satellites. This expertise was later carried forward to many GM models and brands making GM the leader in cutting edge electronics for automotive use. Unfortunately, with sales way below expectations the new model was considered a disaster, and an exterior refresh was rushed for 1987 as a 1988 model. This was the final Cadillac Seville generation to have annual facelifts for the grilles.

The big news for 1988 was the introduction of the Seville Touring Sedan which came equipped with GM's FE2 Touring Suspension. It featured special 15 inch alloy wheels, special springs, rear sway bar, and a special 15.6:1 steering ratio for enhanced handling, a grille mounted Cadillac emblem, special cloisonne trunk lock cover, and a unique four place interior. 1988 Seville Touring Sedan production totaled 1,499 units. The first 1988 STS were custom built in June 1988 by Cars and Concepts and announced at the 1988 Detroit Grand Prix. A special label was affixed to the lower corner of the driver side front door by Cars and Concepts identifying it as one of the original STS's. For 1989, the features of the Seville STS remained unchanged, and 2,487 were produced.

Thank you so much!!!!!|||15 inch alloy wheels = The wheels are 15 inches in diameter and are made of an aluminum alloy (or a mixture of aluminum and 1 or more other metals).

special springs = Just means it has soft springs for a comfortable ride.

rear sway bar = It's a bar that connects 1 wheel on the left side to the same wheel on the right side, in this case the rear wheels, so that the car doesn't lean as much when you are turning. It is like a spring that only works side to side.

grille mounted cadillac emblem = It's a logo that is attached to the grille, which is the front piece of the car between the headlights.

15.6:1 steering ratio = That means that if you were to make the wheels turn around one full circle, if it were possible, you would have to turn the steering wheel around 15.6 times. It just tells you how much the front wheels turn left or right when you turn the steering wheel. The lower the number, the faster the front wheels turn.

cloisonne trunk lock cover = It just means there's another cadillac emblem that covers the trunk lock so you can't see it from the outside. And to access the lock, you turn the emblem so it rotates off the lock.

"unique four place interior" = means it has seating for 4 people.|||So what the phukk do you need to know. Get in and drive it. Start asking questions when it breaks down. -john in Davenport, Iowa|||15inch is size and that is mags

special springs are the lowering springs by the tyres

cadillac emblem speaks for itself

and im bored now

How do I remove Old Tar from underneath car ?

about 2 summers ago I went over a street that had been freshly paved over and now I want to lubricate my chassis but it is covered with some thick tar and looks like it will be tough to take off , also the rest of the front suspension is covered in tar as well. I have a 1986 Cutlass Supreme Brougham , I was told that most of the tar sprays that sell at automotive shops like autozone or kragen won't really help , if its true, what kind of shop should I take my car to ?

thank you in advance|||Don't bother. Just consider it a very good undercoating that will not hurt anything and may actually help. Anything that will work, is a dangerous solvent that is bad to breath, bad to get on skin and bad as a potential fire danger.|||HI

Are you sure some of that is not just the factory undercoating? If you drove over some wet tar on the road it would only be within the fender wheels wells. Because the tires would only throw the tar straight up not around under the car. I would say just clean up around the lube zerts and leave the rest the undercoating is to protect the car's under body from rust.

good luck

tim|||sorry but the crap that removes this stuff, is more cancer causing and way more toxic than its worth, Im not sure what lubricating the entire shassis is supposed to do, but thats between you and your chassis. I have dealt with road tar, tiny bits are a major pain in the butt, I cant see any thing short of sand blasting that will take it off fast. maybe you should undercoat the rest of the car with tar and even it up I dont know, best of luck however it goes.|||Hey you got free undercoating! LOL You can use heat and / or laquer thinner, but not both at same time its very flammable. use gloves with thinner. If its that old on the car it will take some soaking, try using a rag wrapped and we it. Just remove from the lube fittings (zerk) and leave the rest, won't cause a problem.|||I also have some "free undercoating" that I will not bother removing. I also have some more "free paint" on top of that as well. It's not worth worrying about.|||WD-40!!!

Saturday, November 19, 2011

Atheists: I am writing a new scientific textbook, what do you think?

I am writing a high school textbook on the origins of the automobile. Here is a quick overview:

"Billions of years ago, some rubber particles became separated from a rubber tree. Eventually, these rubber particles came together and formed a tire. A few million years later, three other tires formed the same way and came together with the first tire.

After several million more years, the four tires developed a chassis and two axles: one per pair of tires. Eventually, an internal combustion engine evolved, enclosing itself within the hood.

Scientists are not certain what type of car evolved first, but they know that it was the common ancestor of all cars that exist today. This car would eventually reproduce and give rise to every single type of automobile on the modern highways.

It is readily obvious that all cars share this common ancestor since they all have so many automotive systems in common (e.g., fuel delivery, braking, cooling, etc.).

You can often see the genetic similarities between, say, a Camaro and a Corvette. Scientists believe that a prototype car is a shared common ancestor between these vehicles and that all Chevys would eventually evolve from it."

Anyway, I am modeling this book after a high school Biology textbook. Does it sound pretty good so far?|||Somebody neglected to tell you that that is a dishonest comparison. Living things are not comparable to manufactured items, where are the factories where people are put together?

One can only attack the truth with lies because that's all there is left.|||Knock yourself out.|||No, it doesn't sound "pretty good so far". The fact that you would compare something as complex as "the beginning of the human species" to something as simple as a rubber tire is strange. You're trying to say, "since my story is stupid, and because I've based my story on the premise of evolution...then evolution must be stupid." But you fail miserably because, again, you can't compare "LIFE ON EARTH" to a "rubber tire". *sigh* Try again, come back later.

I've said it before but now I'm serious....I think I lost a few million brain cells reading this question in it's entirety.|||That you're conflating living entities with artificial devices as creationists tend to do.|||I'm wondering...don't they usually give those kinds of jobs to people with an understanding of science? You got lucky.|||When you can differentiate between a living organism and inanimate objects and understand why it is a bogus analogy then perhaps you would be ready to write a textbook.

We did answer you by stating that it is a bogus analogy to compare living and inanimate objects.|||It'll sell like mad in the creationist home-school market... They love being fed bullshit and claiming it's science....|||It might be better if you knew one iota about science before writing your textbook. On the other hand, it hasn't stopped other creationists around the world. Knock yourself out!|||Except there is verifiable and undeniable evidence concerning when and who built the first car.

Who Invented the First Ever Car

Ferdinand Verbiest invented the first car in the year 1672. It was the first ever car invented and was powered by steam. Ferdinand was an experimentalist and a missionary to China. He built his car in China. Hence you could rightly say, the first ever car was made in China.

In 1769, the first self-propelled car was designed and built by Nicholas Cugnot. His model of car was a three-wheeler.

Francois Isaac Rivaz, a Swiss inventor, designed and invented the first ever car with an internal combustion engine. This car engine was fueled with a mixture of hydrogen and oxygen. This car was made in 1806. However, this design was not a success.

The car models designed and built by Samuel Brown, Samuel Morey and Etienne Lenoir were also a failure.

In 1881, Gustave Trouve not only designed and invented the first ever car powered by electricity but also demonstrated the functioning of this automobile at an International Exhibition of Electricity in Paris.

Four years later in 1885, Karl Benz designed and built a car powered by gasoline. This car was made in Germany. This was the first ever car to be granted a patent in 1886. The rest is history and the world acknowledged Karl Benz as the "Inventor of the modern automobile". He also invented the first ever car with an internal combustion flat engine in 1896.

Edit: No op I wasn't, but other people were, they verified it and anyway there is more than one book or account that talks about the invention of the car..Unlike the people in your bible, there are no other accounts for them.|||Why, that's exactly right! With such in-depth research and critical thinking like that, you're bound to go far in life, my man!

Have you considered your future career path? Perhaps the job of Minister of Agriculture in North Korea would suit you?|||I know you think you're insulting us Atheist, but really I see that as an insult against the your own intelligence and that of your fellow Christians.|||oh here's a xtian trying to be satirical. eh excuse you, xtian, your bible is a mythical satire, didn't you know?|||Those who don't understand analogy - this is modeled after evolution.|||The future looks bleak, with retards like YOU on the loose ...

... I got a couple of cousins that were home-schooled JUST LIKE YOU, with really evangelical Christian parents. Rural, poor ... you know the drill. By age 18, those boys were "DUMB AS TREE STUMPS" and barely qualified to work in their daddy's (very small) lumber mill.|||You're attempt to mock evolution isn't all that good.....|||its quite funny really because of course cars did evolve it didn;t just happen over night "poof modern cars appear" of course your dates are questionable but when this evolutionary process began?[when was the wheel invented?]! of course my advice to you would be to do a little research on your subject matter before attempting to write about it. and to inform you poor misinformed Americans henry fords contribution to the car was minimal. if you would like more information about the evolution of cars please email.

you can't blame people for thinking you were home schooled perhaps you should have listened

also for proof i have seen the cars [fossils] themselves in museums or are you really suggesting that they were only built to throw us off when in fact cars came about by magic poof there's your air conditioned automatic transmission satellite navigated hydraulic braked pneumatic Tyre's fuel injected self propelled carriage|||It can be demonstrated that cars do not reproduce. There are no genetic similarities between a Camaro and a Corvette because they have no genetic information.

Show the world that cars can and do reproduce and show me cars have genetic information and you'll start backing up your proposition. When a biologist claims living things reproduce with modification it can be demonstrated and the claim can be tested by anyone. When a biologist claims a chimpanzee and a bonobo have genetic similarities, the genetic information is there and can be examined by anyone. I've no problem with you denying these indicate a common ancestry. I do have a problem with you saying it's false because of this absurdity.

*You may not include you specifically, rather those that reject the claims of descent with modification.

How do I install a LED tube light in my Jeep?

I recently got a LED tube light from Pilot Automotive and seeing as this is the first time I'll be installing one help would be greatly appreciated. Ok heres the deal, the light has two wires running through it a black one and a white and black striped one, now the instructions say to connect the black wire to the chassis ground (im guessing any part of the body, but I may be wrong), and connect the striped wire to a switched power source (parking light, tail light, etc.) only problem with that is I want it in the jeep not outside so I have no idea where to connect that at all (detail of exactly where this wire would go would again be greatly appreciated). Also just for the record I know its illegal to drive with interior lights on, I just want to have it working, it doesn't mean im going to drive with it on. |||i would start by going to auto zone and buy a toggel swicth so you can turn them on and off a will so once you have the swicth place the light where you wan it then tace the black wire to any metal part of the car you could use a bolt that you see inplace already just make sure that the wire is touching the metal off the car for example if you see a screw going through plastic then into the metal that would not be a good ground next mount the toggal swicth where you want it then run the white wire from youre light to the swicth (there should be two tabs on the back of the swicth) cut the wire to lenght the remaining wire that you cut off hook to the other side of the swicth and run that to the battery off the car.(RED SIDE FOR POSSITIVE).now the swicth will control the lights to go one and off whenever you want ps if the on off swicth isnt the way you want it example up is off on is down you could change it by reversing the wires on the back of the switch also disconnect the battery during install incase you were to touch a bare wire you wont blow any fuse also when you run the wire from the swicth to battery you could run the wire under the dash and go threw where you see other wires ging threw to the engine area if you need more help you could call me at 609 618 2175 good luck its easy

Why some of Saleen vehicles(S281 and S302) are NOT mustangs?

For some of you who don't really know Saleen, Saleen is to Ford as RUF is to Porsche.

Saleen is a independent company and is not owned by Ford.

People look at the outside and锘?(based on it's appearance) automatically say "Its a Ford Mustang".

However, the only thing the Saleen cars themselves has in common with the Ford Mustang is cosmetic parts. Underneath that

cosmetic fa莽ade is All Saleen performance parts. There are enough changes made by Saleen to merit the cars as it's

own creation.

Besides most people obviously dont understand the legal system锘?and who has registered rights to the corresponding vehicle.

Ford has nothing to do with the Saleens(such as the s281e,s302e, and sms), nor does Ford own the rights to the cars. The cars themselves may have started life as a Ford Mustang, however once Saleen is done replacing the vehicles OE mechanical and cosmetic parts, there is very little of Ford (if any) left in the car.

The Saleens is more than just a copycat Tuner version of the Mustang. Saleen itself is subject to the exact same federal锘?regulations governing automotive design as GM, Chrysler LLC, Ford and various other manufactures. So as I said earlier, its not a Mustang.

The engines for the S281 Extreme and S302 Extreme are built in-house under锘?the supervision of Saleen Chief Engineer Neil Hannermann and Engine Department Manager Bill Tally.

keep in mind that the S-Series(S302 and S281)are not mustangs, these cars did start life as mustangs but when Saleen gets a hold of these vehicles they replace ALL of Fords OE mechanical and cosmetic parts.

The锘?life of the S-Series begins, like all Saleen production cars, on the floor of the company's 131,000 square foot facility.

The new cars proceeds down Saleen's assembly line. The car is completely gutted from nose to tail. ALL Ford parts are removed:

Ford OE Transmission and Transmission Assembly Gone. Ford OE Suspension and Chassis, Shocks, Springs, Control Arms Gone.

Ford OE Brakes and Brake Assembly Gone. Ford OE Wheels and Tires Gone. Ford OE Engine and Exhaust System Gone.

Ford OE Air Feed System Gone.锘?Ford OE Front Clip Gone. Ford OE Rear Clip and Spoiler Gone. Ford OE Hood Gone.

Ford Factory Fit %26amp; Finish Gone. Even the factory Ford color is ... Gone. All Saleens are painted in colors developed by BASF.

The Ford OE Computer Management System is snatched out and replaced by a Specially Programmed Saleen Computer System. Saleen calls it "PowerFlash".

The engines for the S-Series are built in-house under锘?the supervision of Saleen Chief Engineer Neil Hannermann and Engine Department Manager Bill Tally.

PLUS, Ford's vin number is gone n replaced by Saleens own vin number.(regardless if the vehicle is still registeres as it's former self)

Also, a FORD dealership cannot market, order, take delivery, sell, repair or perform schedule maintenance on a Saleen product unless Saleen "certifies" the dealership first. A Ford dealership that wants to market, sell, etc. a Saleen product must

contact Saleen directly to begin the Certification process. It should be noted that Certification is not easy, it锘?is very demanding for a dealership. Not all Ford dealerships get certified|||"Ford Factory Fit %26amp; Finish Gone. Even the factory Ford color is ... Gone. All Saleens are painted in colors developed by BASF."

This is true for some Saleen's, but not all. The Saleen "Custom Color" is an $18000 option. The majority of Saleens are in original Ford colors.

"PLUS, Ford's vin number is gone n replaced by Saleens own vin number.(regardless if the vehicle is still registeres as it's former self)"

Incorrect. The base Mustang is assigned a VIN number, and that number is maintained throughout the Saleen conversion process. If you take a Saleen VIN and plug it into a VIN decoder, it will decode as the original "donor" Mustang manufactured by Ford.|||I equipped my car with a Brenspeed Stage 2 Saleen Package. It has excellent performance. For all my Saleen information, I go to http://www.brenspeed.com/saleendl.html - these guys know what is what when it comes to Ford Mustangs and Saleens.|||1) this is not a question

2) "there is very little of Ford (if any) left in the car" you're an idiot. The chassis, major body panels, block, and major interior parts are Ford. It's like saying Shelby Mustangs aren't Mustangs. Stupid. The Saleen S7 isn't a Mustang. A Saleen Mustang IS a Mustang.

Help with my english!!!?

Hello everyone. i m an italian student in mechanic engineering and i ve to do my english examination...i will give you my english text i ve to give to my professor...can you give me any suggestion and grammatical correction??? Please help me...thanks

The modern robot industry is addressing itself to develop the vision technology for robot cells in order to increase productivity and open new processes to automation. According to a lot of researches and experts’ opinions, the vision technology will award to robots higher reliability decreasing cost and increasing ease of use.

Vision system isn’t new in automotive robotics but, because of its great reliability and low costs, it is gaining greater penetration and there are a lot of possible quality enhancements.

In Rick Youngblood and Roberta Nelson Shea’ s ideas, two important character in different automation industries, vision system can be employed in the field of chassis assembling and safety driving.

More robots are vision-ready, which allows users to simply plug in a camera.

Adil Shafi, president of Shafi, explains that there are only two requirements for a robot to work with vision and to see things randomly in space: we need to be able to talk to the vision sensor, either through a PC or directly to the sensor, and secondly, we need to be able to see that the robot updates its location when it’s given some feedback by vision.

Therefore these robots become good to adapt their application to different environments. This is the first pace to a massive adoption, final purpose of an industry which is improving this technology toward cheaper and much more precise and reliable robots. Moreover every industry will give users software of developing and controlling making easier use and giving the user a fundamental autonomy.

There are some difference between how vision was before and how vision is developing. Some years ago it use correlation-based pattern matching which relied on light levels, and that was very, sensitive to changes in lighting and appearance. Now algorithms have been improved to find the 3D position and orientation of parts, there are higher levels of integration that are emerging between robots and vision.

Vision system can revolutionize especially the welding phase in every vehicle building sector. “They are starting to look towards better weld quality and tracking of welds, logging the quality of the spot-welding and being able to track that to particular vehicles”, Michael DeWitte, sales director for Kuka Robotics, says.

The maturation of vision system technology is opening new avenues for industrial robots. In the future we can expect greater integration between robots and vision to combat the darkening economic landscape.|||Try this. Malbene, I took a few chances when it wasn't totally clear to me what you wanted to say. If you have any questions just edit your question. I will see them.

The modern robot industry is now embracing the development of vision technology for robot cells in order to increase productivity and open new processes to automation. According to research results and expert opinions, vision technology will provide robots with higher reliability, decreased cost and greater ease and range of application.

Vision systems are not new in automotive robotics but, because of the great reliability and low costs they offer, they are gaining penetration and introducing many possible quality enhancements.

According to Rick Youngblood and Roberta Nelson Shea, who are prominent in different automation industries, vision systems can now be employed in the fields of chassis assembly and driving safety.

More robots are now being supplied "vision-ready", which allows users to simply plug in a camera.

Adil Shafi, president of Shafi, explains that there are only two requirements for a robot to work with vision and to see things randomly in space: we need to be able to talk to the vision sensor, either through a PC or directly to the sensor and we need to be able to ensure that the robot updates its location when it receives vision feedback.

Such robots will have the capability to adapt their application to different environments. This is the first step toward a massive adoption of robot technology and is the final objective of an industry which is developing its technology toward cheaper and much more precise and reliable robots.

Moreover every industry will give users development and control software, facilitating application and giving the user a fundamental autonomy.

Robotic vision is changing its direction. Some years ago it used correlation-based pattern matching which relied on light levels and that was very sensitive to changes in lighting and appearance. Now algorithms have been improved to enable the 3D positioning and orientation of parts so that higher levels of integration are emerging between robots and vision.

Vision systems are ready to revolutionize the welding phase in every vehicle building sector. As Michael DeWitte, sales director for Kuka Robotics, says: “We can look forward to better weld quality and tracking of welds, logging the quality of spot-welding and being able to trace that to particular vehicles”.

The emergence of vision system technology is opening new avenues for industrial robots. The recovery from today's downtrodden economy will certainly be supported by the emerging integration between robots and vision.

Chaio.|||%26gt;%26gt; to develop the vision technology for robot cells in

It is a bit clumsy to use "the vision technology". Ordinarily this phrase would omit "the".

%26gt;%26gt; two important character in different automation industries, vision system

"Character" is plural, so use "characters". The same is true of "system".

%26gt;%26gt; There are some difference between how vision was before and how vision is developing

"Are" is plural, so use "differences".

%26gt;%26gt; Some years ago it use correlation-based

Use the past tense phrase "used" here.

%26gt;%26gt; Vision system can revolutionize especially

A bit clumsy. Try "Vision system can especially revolutionize " instead.

Hope this helps.

Ciao!|||You may want to change "a lot of" to many, because a lot of is often not considered okay in formal writing. Also, maybe make it "According to many researchers and experts," you probably don't really need the word opinions. Change to "the vision technology will give robots higher reliability, decreasing cost, and increasing ease of use. Try to not use words like "isn't and it's " because they too are considered too informal for this type of writing. You might want to change the word "character" to "figures," it just makes it sound more fluid. You could change "secondly" to "second." Make it: "Therefore these robots become good at adapting their application to different environments." "There are some differences" (not difference).

This is a very good essay overall.

I hope this helps, and good luck!

When a tube is being bent is the internal radius still in original length or the centreline is original length

My name is Gai Abraham, an automotive engineer trying to build a little LEV (low emission vehicle)

I have contacted you previously and I wish to ask further help on the bending of steel tubes.

Namely I have designed a chassis from bent steel tube, the technical sheet on S.S. astm 301 allows, depending on the hardness of the tube, to have elongations ranging from 40% (for annealed) up to 9% (for full hard) from original length.

The issue I am trying to solve is whether the original length is the midline of the tube, giving during bending, compression on the inlay and tension on the outlay for final plastic bending

or the original length is the inside radius of the curved tube and gradually all the tube stands deformation up to a maximum value on the outer side?

I think that if the tube is held in position and supported on the inside while curving it, the original length is the inside radius since it was not able to compress.

thank you

Gai

ga5aq@yahoo.com|||The inside will compress some. The outside with stretch a little more. And the tube will flatten slightly.

For most tolerance requirements the centerline length will work.|||in draughting the centre line retains the origin length

in practical terms the error is small

concentional :- (eg bending copper tubes up to 25 mm)

you need to bend a tube with the outside or inside held concentric with an internal or external spring

The new GTR specs for the us?

US SPEC INFORMATION: The 2009 Nissan GT-R will go on sale in the United States in June of 2008 with a base price of $69,850. The premium model will sell for $71,900, and will include a Bose sound system, side airbags, and heated seats. The Bose system consists of 11 speakers mounted in rigid aluminum diecast panels. The car's pre-order program, available through select US dealers, will begin in January.

2009 Nissan GT-R: Awesome From Afar

The 2009 Nissan GT-R has broken cover. Or rather, several well-known automotive media outlets have blown its cover! When the December 2007 cover of Motor Trend got leaked (or swiped) from the printer, press embargoes were tossed aside, along with it the thin veil of secrecy the GT-R was still hiding. Namely its off-the-chart performance numbers: 0-60 mph in 3.5 seconds, 11.7-second quarter mile, and top speed of 193 mph. Better still, the supercar is expected to be in the amazingly affordable $70-80K range.

Unveiled at Last

The black covers that hid the GT-R’s nose are gone and reveal a chiseled carbon fiber nose piece, flanked on both sides by small canards molded into the bumper itself. Look closely, and you can see how the deep front splitter directs air to the radiator and around the car. The sleek shape of the new R35 is a commendably slick 0.27 Cd (co-efficient of drag). Twin NACA ducts in the hood channel air directly to the small IHI turbos located underneath. They’re not the only low-drag aero devices used on the car, either. The front fenders have functional air ducts that sweep back from the sides of the car, drawing heat away from the engine compartment. One detail not readily apparent is the rear carbon-fiber splitter that uses airflow under the chassis to develop downforce. While standard practice for LeMans prototypes, these types of details are reserved for only a few road-going machines. Nissan engineers knew the enormous performance envelope for this car would require every (aero) trick in the book! Rear styling of the R35 features the iconic twin round taillights of the GT-R series. All in all, Nissan stylists have created a modern, functional shape that pays appropriate homage to the legendary line.

V-6 Power First for GT-R

Looking under the hood of the new PM (Prime Midship) chassis reveals the front-mounted engine is mounted far back for better weight distribution. But there’s no blown straight six for this thoroughly modern supercar. The new twin turbocharged 3.8 liter V-6 is named the VR38 and puts out 473 hp at 6,400 rpm and 433 lb-ft of torque at 5,200 rpm in its initial state of tune. No doubt Nissan will have more on tap for the future, but all appearances suggest that this is the engine to be federalized for North American use. Expect the compact IHI turbos to have little to none of the dreaded turbo lag of years past. An extremely clean turbo installation utilizes separate plenums and tuned intake runners for each bank of the engine. Expect to hear more details on this amazing powerplant in the near future.

Meanwhile, a carbon fiber prop shaft transfers power to the rear- mounted transaxle. Utilizing a six-speed, direct-drive semi-automatic gearbox, Nissan’s latest AWD creation can vary power delivery from 50/50 (front/rear) to 2/98 for heavy acceleration. By utilizing the paddle shifters, GT-R pilots may sample full-throttle, no lift upshifts, and computer-guided downshifts with full rev matching. The GT-R’s suspension is more familiar, with twin wishbones up front and a five-link rear. The dampers are electronically controlled, with three separate programs (race, sport and comfort) available at the touch of a button. More extreme are the 20” alloy wheels with massive six-piston Brembo (front) and four-piston (rear) calipers with equally enormous 15.2” rotors. You’ll need that kind of stopping power, as the latest R35 is expected to tip the scales at a touch over 3,792 pounds.

Silken Hammer

Inside the cockpit, it’s luxury blended with pure performance. Racing-style leather seats with large side bolsters will hold you (and your passengers) in place, although I’m not sure anyone really wants to be tossed around in the smallish 2+2 seats in back! A beautifully sculpted instrument panel features a center-mounted tach (with a 7K redline) and a smaller speedo on the left. The instruments move up and down with the steering wheel, so each driver can find the perfect position. Nissan continues their superb job in blending traditional control surfaces with cutting edge technology. A good example is the center stack with traditional HVAC controls in the center and a large video screen just above this. Toggling through this display provides such diverse information as turbo boost, g-loadings, engine performance parameters and which of the really hot girls is lusting for a ride in your new GT-R. OK, I made that last one up. Step into the new R35 and you’ll find everybody wants a ride!|||Bad ***. I've wanted one since i saw the nurburgring shots 2 years ago. Nissan knows how to build it. Finally, godzilla in the us.|||they say this is gonna thrash every porsche around but they are WRONG!!!!!!!the porsche 911 GT2 comes out soon and there is the 2010 GT1 coming out its gonna be the fastest production car in the world when it comes out oyeah and at the nurburgring the carrera GT monstered the GT-R

but it is much more affordable than most porsches

isay its a very good car but never be as good as a porsche|||I will let you know how I feel about GTR when I go to Nissan School early spring. Rumors had a select few technicians going to the factory in Japan for four weeks. Dealers already strapped for cash so Nissan is having GTR specific technicians learn in the US. This is a huge gamble and expensive for Nissan Dealerships that have to purchase special tools special alignment racks and GTR super tech training. I think this should put Nissan back into the performance arena.|||i agree john paul .. lets hope they did some serious research and development with the transmissions.. the 350z/g35 coupe didn't do to well in that department.. Ive lost count on transmissions and clutches since '03 but the G37 tranny is outstandingly better ..|||Only six production cars had a faster time around the 'Ring than the GT-R and all of those cars cost in excess of $400k. This car is built to be one helluva machine. Edmunds has already done personal tests and gotten it to go 0-60 in 3.3 seconds and the quarter mile in 11.6 and that wasn't even in ideal conditions.

The GT-R does smoke most of what Porsche has out there right now, the lone exception being the Porsche Carrera GT with is a $500k car. Nissan bought and tested a Porsche 911 Turbo along side the development of the GT-R and as a result it is a car that is faster, handles better, and beats its price by tens of thousands of dollars.

Of course, it will remain to be seen how this car holds up. The engine is basically brand new (extreme evolution of the VQ motor), rear-mounted tranny has rarely ever been done before, AWD... theres a lot of stuff to potentially break. But if they did their homework, like I believe they did, I think car will earn its place among the exotics.

Btw, first year, don't expect to pick one of these up for less than $90-100k. Mark-up is going to be ridiculous.

Open University or Traditional University for Engineering Degrees?

I am wanting to become an automotive engineer and would like to know which would be the best route to getting a degree, hopefully to masters level. Studying for 2 years at college to get the grades at a-level to do a 5 years masters in automotive engineering at a university such as Loughborough or Leeds, or study for a mechanical engineering degree through the open university and trying to get some work experience (even if it has to be unpaid) at the same time that could take 2 to 8 years depending on changing/unforseen circumstances?

Ideally the career i want is in engineering car design, either chassis or powertrain.

Many Thanks|||For engineering always look at Brunel and Bristol as well as others. For engineering they are some of the best this country has to offer.

In terms of the OU BEng and MEng, I would consider them secondary degrees, in that, say you are an accountant for an engineering company and they/you want you to be more familiar with the operational side then you could get a basic background in engineering. They dont really compare technically with other degrees.

This is not to put the OU down at all, its got me doing physics or aerospace engineering and will get me into another 'proper' uni to graduate.

Its brilliant for non-practical degrees like history or maths etc. but not good when your career will require you to design, build or test real life mechanical systems.

Always do a sandwich year course. It will benefit you immensely in any career you embark on afterwards and could even guarantee you a job with that company when you graduate.

If I were you, do A-levels or an access course make sure your uni will accept you and what grades you require. You could do physics and maths courses with the OU and see if that would get you in. It works for me.|||At Leeds you have to do the work. With OU, you just send your fees payment in time. Employers know the difference. Your choice.

Basic engine swap question?

I'm learning lots about cars regarding modifying/maintaining them. I wanted a used car that I can use as a project to get some experience while i'm still young. A few friends suggested some cars, and I finally found one for my price range that will also hopefully run for the next couple of years while i'm still in college. It's a Mazda RX7 1991 Convertible. The owner said it has close to 100,000 miles on the chassis, but they had done an engine swap with only 10,000 miles on it as of today.

Can someone tell me about the engine swap and the benefits? Like does the swap make the car have a "fresh start" when it's done(run like it first came out in 1991). I know as the chassis gets more miles on it the car will produce more problems, but are there things you can do to make the car not have those problems often such as the engine swap?

I currently don't know the swap, sorry. But it may have been an electric or combustion swap rather than rotary. Any information that you think I should know about will be helpful.

Also I've looked at my local colleges for legitimate automotive classes, but a lot of them don't provide often. I wanted to gain knowledge about fixing up and modifying vehicles in just a couple of years. Does anyone have good sources I can look into over in Southern California? Online based classes are great too.

Thank you !|||Unless they rebuilt the engine before swapping it, it could also have 100,000 miles on it. Usually an engine swap indicates taking a running engine out of a wrecked car or a car that is getting a different engine. Don't forget that the suspension/steering/drive train parts may have 100k on them and need replacement (bushings, tie rods, bearings, etc.). If you buy this car, you are almost guaranteed to have to do work on it and maybe gain the skills/knowledge you are looking for. Good luck!|||It is a 20 year old car! Too old and beyond economical repair or modification for a RX7. To modify a car for better performance is not easy you need to understand the basics of car - Powerplant, transmission, suspension, controls, electric and electronics.

Yappers, has one of your cars ever been car-napped?

since it's been in the local news lately... it's time to ask if you (or someone close to you) have experienced parking your car somewhere and it's gone by the time you get back to it. also your thoughts about it.

i'm grateful i never had to deal with that since all our cars have locks and alarms, but my grandparents weren't as fortunate... their early 80's Corolla Liftback was just so easy to take when cars didn't have alarms or whatever. all the PNP could do was put that car's license plate in their database as if it's so hard to change the plate, the paint, and even the chassis. personally, i think these car-napping syndicates are in the automotive buy-and-sell business.|||Thank God there has been none. Our cars have alarm systems and our carport has CCTV. Besides, car theft is not easy in our gated community. When out, we take more than the usual precautions, to a point where it seems we are "praning" (paranoid) already. We also constantly update ourselves, and our drivers, about the latest modus operandi of carjackers. Like lately, they stick something at the glass at the back of the car. So that when you are backing out and you see this distraction, you get off and the thieves immediately enter the car, speeding off with you not knowing how the car "drove itself".|||My car almost got carnapped but was prevented because the unaware police officer who passed by with his mobile motorcycle made noise that fled the carnapper who threatened me with his ice pick.

I rushed in to my car and drove it because I was afraid of him, coming back.

Thank God for that.|||Fortunately, my car was never car-napped or looted but its tail light was once smashed by somebody in a bad neighborhood, I presume. I do think too that car-nappers have connections with car dealerships. I mean, who would steal a big item if they can't dispose it easily?

What should I do? REPOST, spammers?

Heres the situation. Im 18 and live with my mom. Im enrolled at Wyotech which is 1200 miles away. I took a semester off to drive back home to help my mom due to a car wreck because she lives alone. Now I have 2 choices. I can either go back to Wyotech and finish the other half of my classes, or I can stay here and call and try to cancel most of the dept and get a job at a dealership.

I work at sears and was just moved to the automotive technician department as a basic tech. Now that i will have automotive experience, I can just try to get a job at a dealership (which is the only reason to go to a automotive tech school). Ive already finished all classes there, really just need to finish chassis and High Performance, which dosent teach anything anyway.

Other notes: I have a girlfriend here that Im about to marry and my mom depends on me. I dont want to leave them.|||there are hundreds of spammers in this category. they take over entire threads. I would find someone else to answer your questions. It would be easier.

Sounds like right now your mom needs you. you can put things on hold as far as your education. no reason you can't take up where you left off once your mom is better. The job at Sears may be the best solution for you right now, you can get experience that will be very helpful for you in the future.

It might be the best thing to put off marriage for awhile as well. 18 is very young to be married and have to help take care of your mom too, plus a full time job. Good luck. I hope everything works out for you.

What would you do, thanks?

Heres the situation. Im 18 and live with my mom. Im enrolled at Wyotech which is 1200 miles away. I took a semester off to drive back home to help my mom due to a car wreck because she lives alone. Now I have 2 choices. I can either go back to Wyotech and finish the other half of my classes, or I can stay here and call and try to cancel most of the dept and get a job at a dealership.

I work at sears and was just moved to the automotive technician department as a basic tech. Now that i will have automotive experience, I can just try to get a job at a dealership (which is the only reason to go to a automotive tech school). Ive already finished all classes there, really just need to finish chassis and High Performance, which dosent teach anything anyway.

Other notes: I have a girlfriend here that Im about to marry and my mom depends on me. I dont want to leave them.|||It all depends on what you want to do in your life. If you want to be a mechanic for the rest of your life (which is not something that anyone should be ashamed of), then you can forget the vocational school (Wyotech) and stay where you are. But, if your ambition is to become a Service Manager or General Manager or if you want to own your own automotive service company, you had better get all of the certifications that yo can. Do not pass them up. Otherwise, you will get passed up.|||Mommies boy? Grow up!

Ford Thunderbirds (1989-1997)?

Well here's some of the vital information. I reside in the Piedmont of central North Carolina, and I've been having trouble locating a fourth-generation (1989-1997) Thunderbird chassis. I really desire a 1992 LX Coupe model. I've observed various used automotive sites, and I couldn't locate anything within my region. I've also browsed many Ford Dealerships across North Carolina, but I haven't come across a reasonable price. Does anybody have any ideas? Thanks.|||You can thank Obama's cash for clunkers program for the fact that you can't find parts for that "gas guzzling ,emissions spewing Al Gore hating car" that you drive!|||Hi, I have a 1994 T-Bird complete good body and chassis with the 4.6 auto trans. but the engine is locked up. come pick it up for 500.00 located in Corpus Christi Tx. Put your E- Mail add on your question and I will give you my add. You may look up your local impound auctions for one. Any one can bid. Thanks Good Luck|||In your part of the country ones that old even if you found some are usually corroded out and weather beaten. I would consider finding one that has lived most or all of its life in a better part of the country and ship it

I have a Windows network (Win 2008 server) and would like to use a touch screen tablet...cont..?

I need to gather QC data on the production floor. On the users' standpoint, it would make it simple for them to use a touch screen device to gather data, perhaps running a menu selection generated by an Access database. I have hear a lot about Android applications, but I am unsure about compatibility with the Windows apps I already run. As it is now, the user is writing notes down on a paper tablet and keying the data in on the computer. Very inefficient. I am looking for ideas that might help to automate the data gathering process and the data will be processed to find trends in quality issues. The industry is in automotive, the company builds fiberglass truck bodies and interiors on cab chassis such as those used in RV and custom commercial market.|||I am not one to recommend; my skills at this are not that great, but it seems you have a plan well mapped out here. Stick with what you are familiar with. Use a wireless notepad...ASUS seems to have some reasonably priced ones that will work with Windows and should have a wireless adapter as well. Keep it simple.

Car audio class in college?

i'm going to college and have to choose classes and am interested in car audio learning i know that there are special schools that you go to like mobile dynamics and was wondering is there a course that will teach me about car audio how to install and everything. its a community college and there are automotive classes like automotive technology, automotive engine, automotive brakes, suspension, automotive electrical and electrical systems and i think it maybe electrical and electricall system but on the description it says it goes overs the fundamentals of automotive electrical and electronic systems including service and repair of starting, charging, and other chassis electrical systems. Students are introduced to computer controlled systems. does any of this mean they will teach about car audio.|||Doubtful...more than likely it's limited to car electrical components only...like the battery, alternator, starter, spark plugs, and the wring, sensors, and actuators that make the vehicle work. Maybe you can find a job can as a car auto installer in the summer or part time while your at school...nothing like on the job training to teach you everything you need to know. That's how I learned.|||That course won't teach you how to install upgraded sound systems.... but the information it does teach might be useful to know anyhow. Performance audio systems are a specialty of their own... but the more you know about cars in general, and electrical systems of any kind... makes you just that much more knowledgeable than the other guy.

Hey how is this configration??

Specifications:

Chassis Model: Digital Storm 1050Si

Exterior Finish: - EXOTIC StormGreen High-Gloss Automotive Paint Finish

Interior Finish: - EXOTIC StormGreen High-Gloss Automotive Paint Finish

Trim Accents: Paint All Trim Accents: Chassis Vents, Grills, Screws, and Hose Clamps (Red)

Processor: 2x Dual (Intel Xeon W5580 3.20GHz (Nehalem EP Quad Core) (8MB Cache)

Motherboard: Intel Skulltrail D5400XS (Supports up to Two QX9775 Processors) V8 Platform

System Memory: 2GB FB-DIMM DDR2 at 800MHz with ECC (High Performance)

Power Supply: 1200W PC Power %26amp; Cooling (Dual/Triple/Quad SLI Compatible) (Recommended)

Card Reader: External USB Digital Media Card Reader (Black)

Hard Drive Set 1: Operating System: 1x (2TB Western Digital (7200 RPM) (32MB Cache) (SATA) (Extreme Speed)

Set 1 Raid Options: Configure HDD Set 1 to a Raid 10 Config - Mirror Backup Performance (Requires Four HDDs)

Hard Drive Set 2: Multimedia\Data: 4x (250GB Solid State (By: OCZ) Vertex Series (Model: OCZSSD2-1VTX250G)

Hard Drive Set 3: Backup\Misc.: 4x (160GB Solid State (By: Intel) (Extreme Performance) (Model: SDSA2MH160G1C5)

Optical Drive 1: Blu-Ray Writer/Reader (Burn Blu-Ray discs and play them)

Optical Drive 2: Blu-Ray Writer/Reader (Burn Blu-Ray discs and play them)

Internet Access: Killer Xeno Pro (Optimized for Online Gaming) Lag and Latency Reduction

Video Card: 2x CrossFire Quad (ATI Radeon HD 4870X2 2GB)

Add-on Card: CLEARANCE HOT SELLER: Ageia High-Performance PhysX Card P1 128MB (By: BFG)

Sound Card: Creative Labs X-Fi Titanium Fatal1ty Champion (Includes Front I/O) (PCI-Express Slot Based)

Extreme Cooling: H20: Stage 3: Specialized FrostBite Separate Dual Loop System for CPU %26amp; Two GTX 295 Video Cards

Liquid Color:Green: Non-conductive High-Performance Fluid (Requires H20: Stage 3 Cooling Package)

Chassis Airflow: Upgrade Chassis With LED Performance Fans (Green)

Internal Lighting: Internal Chassis Lighting System (Green)

Enhancements: LCD Temperature Display %26amp; Fan Controller (Requires Chassis Airflow Upgrade)

Chassis Mods: 950Si Case Only: Processor %26amp; Video Card Area: Drill and Mount Two Side Window 120mm Fan Blow-Holes

Boost Processor: Stage 2: Overclock the processor between 4.0GHz to 4.2GHz (Requires H20 Cooling Upgrade)

Boost Video Card: Yes, Overclock the video card(s) as much as possible with complete stability

Boost Memory: Yes, Overclock memory frequency (Includes Memory Fan Kit Installed)

Tweak Windows: Yes, Disable and tweak all of the non-crucial services on the operating system

Windows OS: Dual Boot (Windows XP Professional %26amp; Windows Vista Ultimate (64-Bit Edition)

Restore Kit: Digital Storm Specialized Recovery System (DVD Image Based)

Virus Protection: - No Thanks

Office: - No Thanks

Benchmarking: 3D Mark Vantage Advanced Edition (By: Futuremark) (Pre-Install) (Vista Compatible Only)

Install/Test Game: Flight Simulator X: Gold Edition (Pre-Install, apply updates, and test gameplay with my system)

LCD Display: Samsung 30 inch 305T (Widescreen) (Black) (High-Performance Gaming Display)

Surge Shield: APC 1500VA Uninterruptible Backup Surge Conditioner (Recommended)

Speakers: Razer Mako THX Advanced Speaker System (2.1 System) (Includes Subwoofer)

Keyboard: Razer Tarantula Gaming Keyboard

Mouse: Razer Lachesis Gaming Mouse (High-Speed Gaming Grade)

External Storage: Corsair 32GB Flash Survivor Ultra Rugged USB 2.0 Drive

Exclusive T-Shirt: Digital Storm T-Shirt - Black (Extra Large)

Priority Build: - No Thanks, Ship Within 5-10 Business Days After Order Is Successfully Processed

Warranty: 5 Year Platinum Care Extended Parts %26amp; Labor Warranty (Highly Recommended)

************************************|||Xeon W5580 CPUs are socket LGA1366.

The Skulltrail D5400XS has LGA771 CPU sockets.

I wouldn't trust any seller who doesn't even realize those things are incompatible.|||Wow what a howl!! you really have made set ups. Well try to increase you rams as well. Also try see this site http://www.systemsecurityinstitute.org/ they can provide new reviews on the latest gadget there is now if sub scribe for their newsletter.|||whats wrong with your choice of RAM ? you got a pretty extreme machine there, why don't you go with 4 GB RAM 1066mhz or 1333 ?

You have windows 64 bit, you can go with 8Gb RAM or even more like 16Gb.|||get more ram, at least 4gb

L.E.D. installation Help?

I bought couple L.E.D. light bars by Pilot automotive recently. it says to connect the black wire o the chassis ground and the wite/black wire to a switched power source. What I need help with is connecting the white/black wire to the sitched power source. How do i do that? I want to connect it to my headlights.|||well, you would have to install the black to like a bolt in the car or something, the power cable tho would have to be connected to the light switch positive wire also. that's how i did it in my car (I did it to the outside door handles, and the foot well). You will want to disconnect your battery FIRST before attempting any of this. If this doesn't work then try googleing it.

Christains, if you knew these services where provided by Athesits would you still use them?

Atheists have done these things and many more. I can only list so much.

HOUSEHOLD:infrared thermometers,ingestible toothpaste,cosmetics,sewage treatment,bacteriostatic ,portable x-ray devices, UV blocking glass,wireless headsets,enriched baby food,cordless vacuum,water purification, AIR TRAVEL:collision avoidance systems,anti icing systems,optics for high speed ticket processing, jet lag prevention,cabin pressure devices,parachute systems,AUTOMOTIVE:improved radial tires,advanced lubricants,car chassis and break system,crash analysis,structural analysis,highway safety. SPORTS:plasma displays,helmets,heart rate monitors, ingestible thermometers

PUBLIC SAFETY:fire sensors,face masks and fire suits,anthrax detection,life shears, MEDICAL:auto insilin pumps,artificial limbs,corneal refractive therapy,dental waterline purification cartridge,

GROCERY:packaging and freeze-drying,enriched baby food,

hyper spectral imaging of chicken..etc..

What say you?

www.nasa.gov|||And we invented the Internet|||I don't get the problem, why wouldn't I use their services?

Does a man have to be the epitome of moral sanctity and pious learning in order to work on my car or make dental floss?

Sweetie, the only thing Atheists and Christians argue about is the existence of God ... other than that we're all just part of the human race.|||Well Catholics invented the scientific method, was the greatest patron of the arts in time past, and Irish monks preserved Western Civilization during the Black Plague.

So by your logic, atheists shouldn't be able to use science, appreciate art, or be part of any Western Civilization?

There is a severe gap in logic somewhere...|||With all due respect, every one of the above were 'committee projects'. There were likely Atheists on the committees, but to imply believers in God didn't work side by side with them is ridiculous.|||Are you serious? I'm not aware of anyone that shuns devices and services because they weren't made by a Christian. Actually, that's pretty hilarious to think of... LOL!|||Don't dislike the person, just the belief. I have several Atheist friends who do many things for me. Great people! A service is a service.

Just My Thoughts!|||Would you use those services if they were provided by Christians?|||Hey, you guys never thanked us (the Church) for educating Western Europe.|||did you like talk to every person who invented these things and asked if they believed in god are not? Seems like a pretty big boring job to me..

and you spelt Atheist wrong. btw...|||ah...thanks...?|||yes.....why do you brag in religion? youre way offsubject|||oh man thanks for your concern ok and keep it up|||yes why would we not use them

were they only made for athiest to use?

So whats the question?|||LOL! I should be telling Protestants and Atheists alike about what Catholics have done. The calendar you use today, a Pope revised it. Galileo Galilei...I mean just look up "Roman Catholic Inventors" or "Roman Catholic Acheivements"

Heck...did you know that space was small yesterday than it is today? Did you know a priest from the Vatican was the first to say that?

Catholics outnumber any religious, or non religion in this case, in inventions.

So the day you stop using my calendar and the day you stop believing that we evolve around the Earth is the same damn day I'll stop using grocery bags.|||Of course I would still use the services. I have many friends who are of all faiths and beliefs. I am a Christian and I live my life according to what is stated in the Bible. I do not shun others for their beliefs- I accept everyone and pray for all to come to know Jesus and accept Him into their life. Jesus did not condemn the unbelievers. He did not keep company with other Christians. The only way to witness to others and show by my example is by being around others who are NOT Christians! I love all people, even when I don't agree with their specific beliefs or way of life.

Christians, if I looked at your life would I see more science or more faith?

Science has done these things and many more. I can only list so much.

HOUSEHOLD:infrared thermometers,ingestible toothpaste,cosmetics,environmentally safe sewage treatment,bacteriostatic ,portable x-ray devices, UV blocking glass,wireless headsets,enriched baby food,cordless vacuum,water purification,

AIR TRAVEL:collision avoidance systems,anti icing systems,optics for high speed ticket processing, jet lag prevention,cabin pressure devices,parachute systems,AUTOMOTIVE:improved radial tires,advanced lubricants,car chassis and break system,crash analysis,structural analysis,highway safety. SPORTS:plasma displays,helmets,heart rate monitors,ingetsable thermometers

PUBLIC SAFETY:fire sensors,face masks and fire suits,anthrax detection,life shears, MEDICAL:auto insulin pumps,artificial limbs,corneal refractive therapy,dental waterline purification cartridge,

GROCERY:packaging and freeze-drying,enriched baby food,

hyper spectral imaging of chicken..etc..

can you be specific/honest|||It's funny that many Christians like the scientific method when it makes life more comfortable but hate it when it goes against their literal interpretation of a 2000 year old book of fables.|||You don't know what you're talking about. The FSM brings me all those things. So you can just shut up.|||True science does not negate faith. Yes science has brought many benefits to society. But, as is implied by your question, I do not recognize macro-evolution and "scientific" abiogenesis as genuine science. Yes, evolution happens within kinds of creature, but there is no solid evidence that it produces different kinds of creature (that is some precursor to ape and man producing these two diverse species). In every instance the link is missing. The closest scientists come up with that have not been proven a hoax or misinterpretation, are usually based on a very partial skeleton, such as a jawbone and piece of skull (the so-called precursor to whales), and a whole lot of imagination.

Thus I believe by faith, and by scientific evidence which support it, that God created the Universe, and that He formed the earth about 6,000 years ago. I believe by faith that He created the scientific laws which make all of our scientific advancements possible. Science does not negate faith.

Wheres the VIN on this old VW kit car?

long story short, I've looked all over this kit car for a VIN number. Its a Bradley automotive body sitting on top of a VW chassis/motor/trans. There is definitely no numbers on the body, but I'm told thats normal for a kit car. The car passed inspection in 94 in the form of the kit car so I know there has to be one somewhere! thanks in advance|||if its not by the bonnet catch try looking under the bonnet near the windscreen. if its not there then it should either be; by the boot catch, if there is a boot or, on the bulkhead somewhere. if you cant find it on a place that's at least, semi permanent then it has probably fell off!! truth is though, it should be in the same place as every other car!|||its stamped on the tunnel of the chassis. remove the back seat and look on the center of the tunnel just in front of the access panel for the shift rod coupler.

I would just like some opinions on this gaming pc setup im getting?

Chassis Model: Special Deal Hot Seller - Black OPS HailStorm Sub-Zero Liquid Chilled Edition

Exterior Finish: - EXOTIC StormWhite High-Gloss Automotive Paint Finish (HailStorm Chassis Only)

Trim Accents: Paint Chassis Vents and Grills (White)

Processor: Intel Core i7 Extreme Edition 990X 3.46GHz (Six-Core) (Extreme Performance)

Motherboard: ASUS Rampage III Extreme (Intel X58 Chipset) (Features USB 3.0 and SATA 6Gb/s)

System Memory: 24GB DDR3 1600MHz Digital Storm Certified (Highly Recommended) (6x4GB Sticks)

Power Supply: 1500W Silverstone (Dual/Triple/Quad SLI Compatible) (Recommended)

Expansion Bay: Dual Solid State Hard Drive Hot Swap Bay

Hard Drive Set 1: Operating System: 1x (1TB Western Digital Caviar (7200 RPM) (64MB Cache) (Model: Black Edition)

Set 1 Raid Options: - No Thanks

Hard Drive Set 2: Multimedia\Data: - No Thanks

Hard Drive Set 3: Backup\Misc.: - No Thanks

Optical Drive 1: Blu-Ray Player/DVD Player (Play Blu-Ray and Play DVDs)

Optical Drive 2: DVD-R/RW/CD-R/RW (DVD Writer 24x / CD-Writer 48x)

Internet Access: High Speed Network Port (Supports High-Speed Cable / DSL / Network Connections)

Video Card(s): 4x SLI 4-Way (NVIDIA GeForce GTX 580 1.5GB (PhysX) (Overclocked Edition)

Add-on Card: - No Thanks

Sound Card: Creative Labs X-Fi Titanium Fatal1ty Champion (Includes Front I/O) (PCI-Express Slot Based)

Extreme Cooling: Sub-Zero CPU Liquid Chilled System %26amp; Chipset + Triple Video Cards Liquid Cooling

H20 Tube Color: White Tubing with High-Performance Fluid (UV Lighting Reactive)

Chassis Airflow: Upgrade Chassis With LED Performance Fans (Red) (Up to 6 Fans)

Internal Lighting: Internal Chassis Lighting System (White)

Enhancements: Strike-X AeroCool Temperature Display %26amp; Fan Controller (Requires Chassis Airflow Upgrade)

Chassis Mods: HailStorm %26amp; 950Si: Processor %26amp; Video Card Area: Drill and Mount Two Side Window 120mm Fan Blow-Holes

Noise Reduction: Noise Suppression Package Stage 2 (Optimized Airflow %26amp; Fan Speeds with Noise Dampening Material)

CPU Boost: Stage 3: Overclock the processor between 4.2GHz to 4.6GHz (Requires i7 990X Processor)

Graphics Boost: Yes, Overclock the video card(s) as much as possible with complete stability

Memory Boost: Memory Fan Kit Only (Does not include memory overclocking service)

OS Boost: Yes, Disable and tweak all of the non-crucial services on the operating system

Windows OS: Microsoft Windows 7 Ultimate (64-Bit Edition)

Recovery Tools: Advanced Recovery Kit (40GB Hard Drive Partition of Image With OS %26amp; Drivers)

Virus Protection: McAfee Internet Security 2011 (Virus, Spyware , Spam, Phishing, Firewall, Online Backup Protection)

Office: - No Thanks

Benchmarking: - No Thanks

Pre-Install Game: - No Thanks

Display: 3x Triple Acer 3D Panels 23.6 inch GD235HZ (NVIDIA 3D Vision Surround Setup + 1x 3D Glasses)

Surge Shield: APC 1500VA Uninterruptible Backup Surge Conditioner (Recommended)

Speakers: Logitech X-540 5.1 System (Black Edition) (Includes Subwoofer)

Keyboard: Razer Lycosa Mirror Special Edition (Gaming Keyboard)

Mouse: Razer Lachesis Gaming Mouse (High-Speed Gaming Grade)

External Storage: - No Thanks

Exclusive T-Shirt: FREE: Digital Storm T-Shirt - Black (Large)

Priority Build: Please Prioritize: Ship Within Four Business Days After Order Is Successfully Processed

Warranty: Life-time Expert Customer Care with 6 Year Limited Warranty

PLEASE LEAVE YOUR OPINIONS

TOTAL:$12,413.00 + IM DEAD SERIOUS.|||It's too long to read the whole. you know the key of a good gaming computer is to have an excellent graphics card or video card.|||Oh GOD NO, McAfee, you just bought a god computer and you're going to slow it down with McAfee. anything but that, even Norton is better

Is this a good computer?

Hello all, as the tittle suggests, is the listed item a well planned GC (Gaming Computer)?

[Images]

http://www.digitalstormonline.com/hailstorm01.jpg

http://www.digitalstormonline.com/hailstorm02.jpg

http://www.digitalstormonline.com/hailstorm03.jpg

http://www.digitalstormonline.com/hailstorm05.jpg

http://www.digitalstormonline.com/images/csstage6.jpg

[Specs]

Chassis Model: Special Deal Hot Seller - Black OPS HailStorm Edition

Exterior Finish: - EXOTIC StormWhite High-Gloss Automotive Paint Finish (HailStorm Chassis Only)

Trim Accents: Paint Chassis Vents and Grills (Red)

Processor: Intel Core i7 Extreme Edition 980X 3.33GHz (Six-Core) (Extreme Performance)

Motherboard: EVGA X58 Classified 4-Way SLI (Intel X58 Chipset) (Requires Lian Li PC-P80B or HAF X Chassis)

System Memory: 12GB DDR3 1600MHz Corsair Dominator DHX (High-Performance)

Power Supply: 1500W Silverstone (Dual/Triple/Quad SLI Compatible) (Recommended)

Expansion Bay: Hard Drive Hot Swap Bay (EZ-Rack)

Hard Drive Set 1: Operating System: 1x (1.5TB Seagate Barracuda (7200 RPM) (32MB Cache)

Set 1 Raid Options: - No Thanks

Hard Drive Set 2: Multimedia\Data: 2x (1TB Western Digital Caviar (7200 RPM) (64MB Cache) (Model: Black Edition WD1002FAEX)

Hard Drive Set 3: Backup\Misc.: 2x (1TB Western Digital Caviar (7200 RPM) (64MB Cache) (Model: Black Edition WD1002FAEX)

Optical Drive 1: Blu-Ray %26amp; DVD Writer/Reader (Burn + Play Blu-Ray %26amp; DVDs) (12x BD-R) (Lite-On iHBS112)

Optical Drive 2: Blu-Ray %26amp; DVD Writer/Reader (Burn + Play Blu-Ray %26amp; DVDs) (12x BD-R) (Lite-On iHBS112)

Internet Access: Killer 2100 (Maximum Optimized for Online Gaming) Lag and Latency Reduction

Video Card: 1x NVIDIA GeForce GTX 480 1.5GB (Includes PhysX Technology) (EVGA Brand)

Add-on Card: ATI TV Wonder 650 Combo for PC TV Tuner (USB Based)

Sound Card: Auzen X-Fi HomeTheater HD 7.1 (24-bit 192KHz) (Model: AZTHTHD02817) (PCI-Express Slot)

Extreme Cooling: H20: Stage 6: Sub-Zero LCS Dual Loop: CPU %26amp; Quad SLI/CrossFire Video Cards %26amp; Chipset

H20 Tube Color:Red Tubing with High-Performance Fluid (UV Lighting Reactive)

Chassis Airflow: Upgrade Chassis With LED Performance Fans (Red) (Up to 6 Fans)

Internal Lighting: Internal Chassis Lighting System (Red)

Enhancements: Touch 2000 Aerocool Temperature Display %26amp; Fan Controller (Requires Chassis Airflow Upgrade)

Chassis Mods: HailStorm %26amp; 950Si: Processor %26amp; Video Card Area: Drill and Mount Two Side Window 120mm Fan Blow-Holes

Noise Reduction: Noise Suppression Package Stage 1 (Optimized Airflow %26amp; Fan Speeds Only)

Boost Processor: Stage 3: Overclock the processor between 4.2GHz to 4.4GHz (Requires i7 980X Processor)

Boost Video Card: Yes, Overclock the video card(s) as much as possible with complete stability

Boost Memory: Memory Fan Kit Only (Does not include memory overclocking service)

Boost OS: Yes, Disable and tweak all of the non-crucial services on the operating system

Windows OS: Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium (64-Bit Edition)

Recovery Tools: Windows Recovery Toolkit (Bundled with Windows 7 CD)

Virus Protection: McAfee Internet Security 2011 (Virus, Spyware , Spam, Phishing, Firewall, Online Backup Protection)

Office: Microsoft Office 2010 Pro (Full Retail Box Packaging)

Benchmarking: - No Thanks

Install/Test Game: Call of Duty: World At War (Pre-Install, apply updates, and test gameplay with my syste

Display: Samsung 23.6 inch (Widescreen) (Black) (5ms Response Time)

Surge Shield: APC 1500VA Uninterruptible Backup Surge Conditioner (Recommended)

Speakers: Corsair Gaming Headset HS1 (Model CA-HS1NA)

Keyboard: Thermaltake eSPORTS Challenger Pro Gaming Keyboard (Model: KB-CHP001US)

Mouse: Thermaltake eSPORTS Black Wired Pro Gaming Mouse (Model: MO-BLK002DT)

External Storage: - No Thanks

Exclusive T-Shirt: - No Thanks

Priority Build: - No Thanks, Ship Within 5-15 Business Days After Order Is Successfully Processed

Warranty: Life-time Expert Customer Care with 5 Year Limited Warranty|||Oh ! This is a very high capacity computer like gaming computer. I think this computer is very expensive. Of course this is a good computer. Not only good this awesome computer. This computer is mostly used in big business. The processor is intel core i7 extereme. This is the smartest processor ever. So, if u have budget to buy this computer then definitely buy it!!!

And can you say what's the price ???

Please say the price of this computer. I also want to buy this !!!|||Play games? That computer will cure cancer.

Why are "Funny Cars" called "Funny Cars"? There is nothing funny about their appearence.?

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia:

"Funny Car is an NHRA drag racing car class. The other "professional" classes are Top Fuel, Pro Stock, and Pro Stock Motorcycle. Funny cars have forward-mounted engines and carbon fiber automotive bodies over the chassis, giving them an appearance similar to Detroit manufacturers' showroom models."

This does nothing to explain the name "FUNNY CARS"|||The original "Funny Cars" back in the early 1960's were production cars that had been modified. imagine a Mustang, Camaro or Dart with 3000 horsepower. these cars got little or no traction off the line. the rear axle was moved forward to increase the weight on the tires and the wheel wells were enlarged. due to the fact that this was not a multi-million dolar buisiness at the time the rearward portion of the rear wheel well had nothing in it. They had big Hemi's sticking out of the engine bay and usually no hood. They had headers sticking out right behind the front tires. they were infact funny looking cars! The name stuck and now 40 years later funny's have evolved into what you see.|||probly ran off laughing gas back in the day|||That Looks Funny!|||they are called that because when they moved the engine and whole body forward on the frame, back in the day,

(they used a stock car and modified it)

it made the normal car look "funny". it don't look the same on today's cars but they still have that class of racing|||they use to use comics such as the hulk etc just like monster trucks they gave them funny names and funny graphics. now its just sponsors|||it's funny as hell when they hit the wall and go BOOM-Ba!|||It's the name given to a class of cars that is funny.

Funny strange, not funny 'ha ha ha ha'.|||Funny, doesn't always mean hahah, hilarious.

It also means something unusual. So if it is similar to detroit manufacturer showroom models, but not the real thing, then it is unsusual, or funny|||They look funny, but in a strange rather than humorous way. And the ones they built in the 1960's when the term originated were often much weirder than the ones today - some had the roof removed and replaced with a Batmobile-style windshield, others looked like Jeeps stretched to car length or had intake manifolds higher than the roofline.

What metal is best for Automotive Welding? (patching up rust spots)?

Hi,

I have a 79 Corvette I just picked up, and blew the motor within the first week with less then 2 hours of drive time.

All we need right now is a couple more things disconnected and we're ready to pull it out.

While taking everything we need to off I've noticed way to much rust and would like to grind/cut away rust from things (like my radiator mount for example) and patch them up/reinforce.

I'm not familiar with welding, I do get the concept and I would practice a bit first before attempting anything, but my Father has some experience and he can always tackle it if I can't. I would just like to know what is best to use for such a project?

One day I would like to restore the chassis but time, space, money, are all issues. Thus I'd like to treat what I can get at while I have the time and oppertunity|||You can order the replacement parts for the brackets that attach to the frame from many Corvette suppliers or even the dealer still Make sure that you or your father don't cut anything structural and if you do make sure that its welded level and straight.|||im not sure when the corvette went over to carbon fiber body panels but if it is still metal you can just use regular sheet metal (steel)|||you can weld in metal -but if it were me I would look on some of the Corvette forums-sites- and Hemmings Motors news (buy at local news stand)and find the parts to replace-then you still have a Corvette not a cobbled together piece--the parts are not wretchedly expensive and bolt in --if you have frame rust then you seriously need to think before driving--don't want to have frame let down at speed--there are always Corvettes being sold for parts/wrecked/burned, etc--just have to look around

as far as welding do you REALLY want to trust your life and the people around you on the highway to a "I practiced first " welding job?? welders have experience at doing that and usually have to be certified especially at patching frames|||The best metal for automotive welding is the free stuff, lol.

Hey as long as it is not rusty, is the same size as the base metal, slightly bigger is probably better you will be right.

It might be a good idea to use some zinc sheet, just clean up the edges first before you weld and the zinc coating will help protect it later on.

Make sure when you do it that you cut the metal and bend it to fit as best a possible. A better fitting joint will weld a 1000 times easier than one with big 1/4 gaps etc.

http://www.learn-how-to-weld.com/mig-wel鈥?/a>

This page has a video on how you can weld thin steel with the mig welder.

http://www.learn-how-to-weld.com/mig-wel鈥?/a>

Automotive manufacturing: what is the device that holds and moves components during assembly?

In an auto manufacturing plant, large and heavy components are held on a frame-like (or chassis, conveyor brackets?) device that can be wheeled or conveyed into position. The engine is on one, and I assume the unibody or truck frame and bed rides on one of these attached to the conveyor. I am looking for a name to properly describe this part.

This is not the conveyor. This is a part that is attached to the conveyor, or is pushed or lifted up to the conveyor to meet other parts of the car.

Its for a video demo or a toy actually, and their is a part of this toy that looks like what I am describing. Thanks in advance.|||Basically just called a Factory robot, one that moves around I assume would be called a Mobil Factory Robot, try google,

http://www.google.com/search?source=ig%26amp;h鈥?/a>

your welcome.

Automotive bearings - Type of bearings - and what they do - T/F?

When inspecting and servicing front wheel bearings on front wheel drive cars:

A. Some one-piece front wheel bearing hubs are bolted to the front strut.

B. In a one-piece front wheel bearing hub, the outer end of the drive axle is splined to the outer bearing race.

C. When the steering knuckle contains two tapered roller bearings, the torque on the drive axle nut does not affect bearing endplay.

D. Some front wheel bearings mounted in the steering knuckle contain two tapered roller bearings with a split inner race.

Question 2

A customer complains of a "whining noise" in the back of here rear-wheel-drive car when driving between 30 and 40 miles per hour.

True or False

A. - A good way to diagnose this problem is on a hoist with a stethoscope.

B. A good way to diagnose this problem is on the road with a microphone (commonly called "chassis ears").

Question 3 1 points Save

When inspecting and servicing rear wheel (axle) bearings on rear-wheel-drive cars:

A. On some rear wheel bearings, a threaded adapter ring retains the bearings on the axle shaft.

B. Roller-type rear-axle bearings may be lubricated from the oil supply in the differential.

Question 4

When two separate tapered roller bearings are located in a front steering knuckle of a front-wheel-drive car, the wheel bearing endplay adjustment is provided by:

A. The bearing race position.

B. Wheel nut torque

C. Hub nut torque

D. Wheel hub position

Question 5

A front-wheel-drive vehicle has two tapered roller bearings in each rear wheel hub. When adjusting these wheel bearings:

A. The adjusting nut should be tightened to 17 to 25 ft-lb (23-24 Nm), backed off 1/2 turn, and then tightened to 10 to 15 in-lb (1.0-1.7 Nm).

B. The adjusting nut should be tightened to 40 ft-lb (54 Nm), backed off 1 turn, and then tightened to 10 ft-lb (13.5 Nm).

C. The adjusting nut shoudl be tightened to 50 ft-lb (67.5 Nm), backed off 3/4 turn, and then tightened to 10 to 15 in-lb.

D. The wheel and hub should not be rotated while adjusting the wheel bearings.

Question 6

A tapered roller bearing has: -

A. Rollers that have the same diameter at both ends.

B. Excellent ability to carry radial, thrust, and angular loads.

C. Horizontal inner surfaces of the inner and outer races.

D. A separator that allows the rollers to lightly contact each other.

Question 7

When cleaning and inspecting wheel bearings:

A. Sealed bearings should be washed in solvent.

B. High-pressure air may be used to spin the bearings.

C. A bent bearing cage may be caused by improper handling or tool use (during removal or installation).

D. Bearing overload may cause bearing cage wear.

Question 8

While discussing defective bearings:

True or False

A. Brinelling appears as indentations across the bearing races.

B. Brinelling occurs while the bearing is rotating.|||1-A

2-B

3-B

4-C

5-B

6-D

7-C

8-TRUE|||Are we studying for an ASE certification test?

What is "Ground" in automotive terms? No general answers please :-)?

Please, Don't say it the the "chassis" or "frame of the car or engine because I know that. There all linked 2gather. But what is ground?

Is it a common link in a circuit or something along those lines, I was told? I thought "Ground" was basically any conductor connected to the battery's negative side, for example the battery negative terminal is connected to the cars "chassis" or 'frame" basically the "chassis" or "frame" would be considered ground because its metal frame acts as a conductor to negative side of the battery. The"Engine" is connected to the frame also, that's a ground also. But I'm told i was incorrect.|||Sometimes to "ground" something, is basically to drain its energy. If it is near something with a live current, grounding it relieves it from being a threat.|||You are correct.|||You're correct. Ground is basically anything that provides a path back to the negative polarity of the battery in order to make the electrical circuit complete.

What parts do I need to upgrade my suspension, underbody chassis?

On my 88 IROC-Z 350 I'm looking to upgrade as much as I can on my suspension %26amp; shocks, etc.

I know I need bushings, shocks and other parts. For example, what kind of shocks does my IROC have? I think they're gas shocks? I'll post a few links here because I am finding things as I go for my suspension upgrade.

http://www.amazon.com/KYB-KG5562-Gas-Monotube-Shock/dp/B000C3ZDV6/ref=au_pf_ss_7?ie=UTF8%26amp;n=15684181%26amp;s=automotive%26amp;carId=001

http://www.amazon.com/Energy-Suspension-9-13101R-HyperFlex-Polyurethane/dp/B000CNB3U6/ref=au_pf_ss_3?ie=UTF8%26amp;n=15684181%26amp;s=automotive%26amp;carId=001

http://www.amazon.com/Energy-Suspension-3-7106R-Strut-Bushing/dp/B000CNB0CM/ref=au_pf_ss_11?ie=UTF8%26amp;n=15684181%26amp;s=automotive%26amp;carId=001

http://www.amazon.com/Energy-Suspension-3-7106G-Black-Bushing/dp/B000CNB0CC/ref=au_pf_ss_10?ie=UTF8%26amp;n=15684181%26amp;s=automotive%26amp;carId=001

http://www.amazon.com/Energy-Suspension-3-1111R-Hyper-Flex-Bushing/dp/B000CNAXI4/ref=au_pf_ss_9?ie=UTF8%26amp;n=15684181%26amp;s=automotive%26amp;carId=001

http://www.amazon.com/Energy-Suspension-3-5146G-Sway-Bushing/dp/B000CH14OC/ref=au_pf_ss_4?ie=UTF8%26amp;n=15684181%26amp;s=automotive%26amp;carId=001|||1st off stop car part shopping on amazon. Go to summit racing, jegs, spohn performance, etc.

What are you wanting to do with your car? Suspension setups are diff for all types of useage, but the main prob on these cars are the thin weak stamped steel lower controll arms, pan hard rod and torque arm.

And the weak unibody design that flexes.

On my 1988 camaro heres my suspension so far

Spohn weld in sub frame connetors

Spohn adjustable lower controll arms with poly bushings

Spohn weld on lower controll arm relocation brackets

Spohn adjustable panhard rod with poly bushings

Jegster adjustable torque arm

Moog rear springs speced for the Irocs

KYB AXG adjustable shocks

Air lift drag bags in rear springs

Energy suspension poly trans mount, sway bar mounts and end links

Visit and join www.thirdgen.org and look in the suspension form on there for all the info you could ever want